Fancy yarn technology
The fashion effects
For several years fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more importance in the clothing sector, in furnishing and draperies. Demand for denim fabric, for example, has grown by over 50% in the last 10 years and, as the world population and middle classes keep growing, the demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics will likely grow at even a higher rate.
Marzoli was the first manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy device on its spinning frames. The close cooperation between Marzoli and some of its customers, who are worldwide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, has led to the creation of a highly performing system, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device, which for all intents and purposes, represents the global technological leader of all integrated slubbing devices.
There are four basic slubbing effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs.
The slub effect (see image 01) is obtained through continuous variations on the main draft. With Marzoli's system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness as a percentage of the base yarn (multiplier) and its pause (distance between one slub and the next) in millimeters. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 to 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called "malfile", i.e. small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity. Thanks to last generatiion electronics, high efficiency motors, light yet solid trasnmission mechanics and special acceleration ramps that lasts less than 0.1 seconds, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising yarn quality and strength. As the slub effect, the reverse slub one is obtained with a drafting variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces yarn thickness.
The multi-count effect (see image 02) is obtained through prolonged variations of the main draft. The result is a yarn that has different counts. Usually this effect is used together with the multi-twist effect in order to obtain interesting effects on the fabric.
The multi-twist effect (see image 03) entails twist variations that change the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing. This creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and, consequently, in the final product.
Leading-edge slubbing technology
Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device was the first integrated device available on the market and, since its birth in 1999, it has been the world leader among integrated slubbing devices. Its market success has been due to:
- Great flexibility. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device can produce any type of slub effect and all their combinations (e.g. slub-on-slub, multicount and multitwist, etc.). Its state-of-the-art technology and the light and solid mechanics of Marzoli spinning frames allow to produce slubs with length below 20 mm and reach up to 20 slubs per meter.
- Quality of the yarn. One of the major challenges of fancy yarns is the formation of weak points at the end of the slubs due to the motor deceleration. Thanks to the special acceleration/deceleration curves of Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device, the problem is solved.
- Perfect integration with Marzoli spinning frames. The installation of Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device requires no mechanical modification to Marzoli spinning frames: twist and draft variations are accomplished by simply modifying the speed of independent motors that drive the drafting cylinders.
Marzoli Fancy Yarn Features
- fully integrated system
- high performances and productivity
- user-friendly and simple HMI with values in mm and percentages
- great versatility and flexibility
- motors acceleration and deceleration ramps of 10 ms, with sinusoidal shapes to produce yarn without weaks points
- automatic visualization of the graph related to the slub recipe in order to check the slub design
- automatic control of the slubs characteristics with warning in case of not workable parameters
- minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier of 1.80
- multiplier up to 5 time the nominal count
- up to 20 slubs per meter
- slub formation without changing the front roller speed for a perfect distribution of the twist on the yarn
- 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe
- automatic generation of the recipes inserting only the minimum and maximum parameters with a reading choice between "random", "cycle" and "Mcch" system
- up to 10,000 different recipes saved into the machine
- connection to YarNet production management platform for the management of slub recipes from a remote PC
- "Draw your slub" system to draw the shape of the slub on a dedicated editor
- all kinds of slub drawings and shapes are achievable
- in traditional systems the slub can only have one constant diameter according to the set multiplier, while with Marzoli system the diameter may vary infinite times on every single slub
- in traditional systems the acceleration and deceleration ramps, which influence the visual effect of the yarn, are pre-setted. With Marzoli system acceleration and deceleration ramps are completely settable, also for every single slub
- spinners may gradually change the count on long portions of yarn: they may create "incremental multicount" effects with a single and simple drawing. With traditional slubbing systems hundreds of program lines were required