The fashion effects
For several years fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more importance in the clothing sector, especially denim, and in furnishing and draperies. Demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics is increasing, conquering larger shares of the textile market.
Marzoli has been the first manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy device on its spinning frames since 1999. The close cooperation between marzoli and some of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, have arrived to the creation of a highly performing system that fully meets markets needs. The constant efforts and studies at Marzoli, together with the experience acquired while working directly with the customers, have further improved and developed the Marzoli fancy device, which for all intents and purposes, is the global leader of all integrated slubbing devices.
There are four basic of slubbing effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs.
In order to produce slab yarns, we begin with a regular yarn defined as base. This yarn will have defined countand twist that are set up into a machine through a touch screen. The slabbing effects is obtained by a controlled variation on the drafting process. With the Marzoli system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness (multiplier) as a percentage of the base yarn and the pause (distance between one slub to the next) in millimeters. The pause coincides with the base yarn, which is indicated by the multiplier equal to -0-. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 to 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called "malfile", i.e. small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity. Thanks to the last generatiion electronics, high efficient motors and special acceleration ramps lower than 0,1 seconds, Marzoli's slubbing device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising yarn quality and strength.
Multi-count yarn has not a constant count and twist, but it's composed by sections of different yarn counts.Four each count a different desired twist is applied, based on a selected constant "a". The multi-count is therefore obtained through a draft variation to modify the count and the first cylinder speed to modify the twist.
Multi-twist yarns have not count and drafting variation, but only a twist variation. The twist differential changes the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing, which creates interesting light adn dark ares in the yarn and fabric.
As the slub, the reverse slub is obtained with a drafting variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces the yarn thickness.
Marzoli Fancy Yarn Features:
- fully integrated
- high standard level of performances and productivity;
- very friendly and simple HMI, with values in mm and percentages;
- great versatility and flexibility;
- motors acceleration and deceleration ramps up to 10 m/s, with sinusoidal shapes and individually settable to produce yarn without weaks points;
- automatic visualization of the graph related to the present slub recipe in order to check the right execution;
- automatic control of the slubs characteristics with warning in case of not workable parameters;
- minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier of 1.80;
- multiplier up to 5 time the normal count;
- up to 20 slubs per metre;
- slub formation without changing the front roller speed, for a perfect distribution of the twist on the yarn;
- 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe;
- automatic generation of the recipes inserting only the minimum and maximum parameters with a reading choice between "random", "cycle" and "Mcch" system;
- up to 10.000 different recipes saved into the machine;
- connection to the Marzoli Spin Slub monitoring system for the construction of the slub recipes by a remote PC;
- with the new system "Draw your slub" you may physically edit the shape of the slub through the panel.
- the operator draws the slub through the dedicated editor;
- the operator gives an identification number to the new slub;
- the new slub (identification number) is recalled into slub table.