Fancy Yarn


The fashion effects

For several years fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more importance in the clothing sector, especially denim, and in furnishing and draperies. Demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics is increasing, conquering larger shares of the textile market.

Marzoli has been the first manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy device on its spinning frames since 1999. The close cooperation between marzoli and some of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, have arrived to the creation of a highly performing system that fully meets markets needs. The constant efforts and studies at Marzoli, together with the experience acquired while working directly with the customers, have further improved and developed the Marzoli fancy device, which for all intents and purposes, is the global leader of all integrated slubbing devices. 

Slubbing effects

Slub yarn

Multi-count

Multi-twist

Reverse slub

 

There are four basic of slubbing effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs.

In order to produce slab yarns, we begin with a regular yarn defined as base. This yarn will have defined countand twist that are set up into a machine through a touch screen. The slabbing effects is obtained by a controlled variation on the drafting process. With the Marzoli system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness (multiplier) as a percentage of the base yarn and the pause (distance between one slub to the next) in millimeters. The pause coincides with the base yarn, which is indicated by the multiplier equal to -0-. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 to 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called "malfile", i.e. small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity. Thanks to the last generatiion electronics, high efficient motors and special acceleration ramps lower than 0,1 seconds, Marzoli's slubbing device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising  yarn quality and strength.

Multi-count yarn has not a constant count and twist, but it's composed by sections of different yarn counts.Four each count a different desired twist is applied, based on a selected constant "a". The multi-count is therefore obtained through a draft variation to modify the count and the first cylinder speed to modify the twist.

                    

Multi-twist yarns have not count and drafting variation, but only a twist variation. The twist differential changes the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing, which creates interesting light adn dark ares in the yarn and fabric.


As the slub, the reverse slub is obtained with a drafting variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces the yarn thickness.

Slub effects

Marzoli Fancy Yarn Features:

  • fully integrated
  • high standard level of performances and productivity; 
  • very friendly and simple HMI, with values in mm and percentages;
  • great versatility and flexibility;
  • motors acceleration and deceleration ramps up to 10 m/s, with sinusoidal shapes and individually settable to produce yarn without weaks points;
  • automatic visualization of the graph related to the present slub recipe in order to check the right execution;
  • automatic control of the slubs characteristics with warning in case of not workable parameters;
  • minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier of 1.80;
  • multiplier up to 5 time the normal count;
  • up to 20 slubs per metre;
  • slub formation without changing the front roller speed, for a perfect distribution of the twist on the yarn;
  • 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe;
  • automatic generation of the recipes inserting only the minimum and maximum parameters with a reading choice between "random", "cycle" and "Mcch" system;
  • up to 10.000 different recipes saved into the machine;
  • connection to the Marzoli Spin Slub monitoring system for the construction of the slub recipes by a remote PC;
  • with the new system "Draw your slub" you may physically edit the shape of the slub through the panel.
Draw your slub
The new patented Marzoli system to edit the fancy yarn recipes 
In the competitors device the slub recipe is located through a table where the three parameters, length of the slub multiplier and length of the break, are manually edited.
With the innovative and patented Marzoli system, the slub is drawn in a dedicated editor and then the Ring Frame will follow the desired profile.
"Draw your Slub" system works as follow:
  • the operator draws the slub through the dedicated editor;
  • the operator gives an identification number to the new slub;
  • the new slub (identification number) is recalled into slub table.
The editor is very simple: making a double click on the panel, single points are created and later on connected with lines. The line shows the trend of the multiplier, i.e. the diameter of the slub (y) according to the length of the slub (x).
Once the editing is over an identification number is given o the slub. Later on in the slub table this identification number is recalled and the operator has to insert the length and the break of the slub drawn.
This system gives us enormous advantages, most important all kind of drawings are achievable. In the traditional system (competitors) the slub may have only one constant diameter according to the set multiplier, while with Marzoli system the diameter may vary infinite times on every single slub (according to its length). So each slub may have any shape and drawing. In the traditional devices in order to obtain specific drawings the operator need to enter a lot of lines program, with the Marzoli device, it is enough to draw the desired shape and use it as much as we wish. An additional feature is that with this system we may gradually change the count on long portions of yarn, we may create "incremental multicount" with a single and simple drawing inserting only the desirable length. With the "old" system hundreds of programmed lines were required.
For example this "Slub On Slub" effect,
Previously in the traditional system these three lines were required to be set:
Slub length = 100, Multiplier=1,8 Break length=0
Slub length = 100, Multiplier=2,5 Break length=0
Slub length = 100, Multiplier=1,8 Break length=200
"Now to obtain the same effect it is enough to create the desired shape of "slub on slub"; identify it with a number ("6 for example") and recall it with the line. ID=6, Slub length=300, Break length=200. Another advantage is that with this system all the acceleration ramps are completely settable, also because the ramps  are part of the drawing or at least may determine the final shape. In the "old" system only a fix inclination was available, now the inclination may vary slub by slub.